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NEW YORK STATE 4-H
MEAT GOAT PROJECT FACT SHEET #3 |
by Dr.Tatiana Stanton
April 1999
Cornell University, Ithaca , NY 14853
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So you’ve decided
to buy a meat goat wether. OK -- let’s start
looking. First, if at all possible, find someone who
knows a lot about goats to go “shopping”
with you. This way they can help you avoid goats with
serious problems and find a goat that meets your needs.
They will also have a better idea of what a fair or
realistic price is for specific goats. Do not buy
your 4-H project goat at an auction. It is much better
to buy it direct from the person who raised it. This
way you can find out useful information about what
shots it has had, feed it is used to, and how meaty
its relatives look.. If you do not have a 4-H leader
with goat experience to guide you, try to buy your
goat from someone local who is willing to give you
advice if you run into problems with your goat. A
local goat club is a good place to find out about
goat raisers who are helpful and have good quality
goats for sale. Your local Cornell Cooperative Extension
office or the Empire State Meat Goat Producers’
Association can also give you information about local
meat goat breeders. |
Market wethers can
come from almost any breed. But you will probably
get a meatier kid if it is part South African Boer
Goat. It makes sense to start out with a healthy,
sound (sound means free of structural defects) goat
kid that appears to have a good meat carcass. |
You should usually
buy a market wether shortly after weaning unless you
raised him yourself from one of your own does. You
can also start with a 2 week old kid that you will
need to bottle feed at least twice daily but this
will take both a lot of work and a lot of milk. Bottlefed
kids are generally less meaty than kids that are raised
on their dams and they are also easy to get very attached
to. Don’t make this choice unless you and your
family have discussed and planned it out carefully
and have experience caring for very young animals.
Always keep in mind that this is a market kid and
you are raising it to slaughter for goat meat. Try
to avoid buying an animal right when it is undergoing
a lot of stress. For example, if possible get a weaned
kid a week after weaning rather than right at weaning.
If you must buy the kid at exactly weaning be sure
to find out what hay and/or creep feed it is already
eating and buy a small amount of this feed from the
seller to feed it at home the first few days while
you gradually switch it to your own feed Ask that
it be given a Clostridium C and D shot within 2 to
4 weeks before weaning to try and protect it against
enterotoximia (overeating disease). If the kid has
not been castrated yet, remember that you will have
to get it castrated yourself in order to show it in
most 4-H shows. Make sure the kid has been disbudded
or was born naturally polled (hornless) if your local
4-H shows do not allow horned goats. Otherwise plan
on “tipping” the points of the horn by
removing the tips with a hack saw or hoof nippers
at least a month before showing him. Goats are very
socialable so it is a good idea to buy two goats rather
than just one. |
Ideally, the wether
you are buying should look long in the loin (at least
6 inches long if 10 weeks old) when viewed from the
side and very wide between his legs when viewed from
the front and rear. You want his escutchen to be low
and wide. Unless he is only a few weeks old you would
like to see some muscle development on his thighs
and forearms. He should have a shiny, glossy coat
and look a little plump if he is still nursing from
his dam. His withers should be rounded rather than
sharp and he should be relatively level along his
topline. Count on him growing about 2 to 3 lbs per
week or about 10 to 15 lbs per month from weaning
to slaughter age. For example, if you buy a kid who
is 40 lbs at 12 weeks of age in late May and your
4-H show is in late August, your kid will likely weigh
at least 70 lbs at showtime. |
| Here are some questions to ask yourself
as you try to choose a wether to buy: |
| Here are some questions to ask
yourself as you try to choose a wether to buy:
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Do his eyes
look dull or cloudy? |
Yes |
No |
Does he have diarrhea? |
Yes |
No |
Is he standing hunched up
with his tail drooping down? |
Yes |
No |
Are his eyes or nose very
runny? |
Yes |
No |
Is he coughing or breathing
hard without having just done hard exercise? |
Yes |
No |
Is his coat rough and flaky
or does he have any bald spots? |
Yes |
No |
Are his gums and insides
of his eyelids very pale? |
Yes |
No |
Does he have any unusual
lumps or swellings on his body or legs? |
Yes |
No |
Is he lame or stiff moving? |
Yes |
No |
Does he have a fever? |
Yes |
No |
Is his appetite poor? |
Yes |
No |
Does he seem depressed or
weak and uninterested in his surroundings? |
Yes |
No |
Is he having troube urinating? |
Yes |
No |
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| A yes answer to
any of these questions often indicates a sick goat.
So check carefully with the owner if you feel any
of these health problems exist. Here are some more
questions to ask yourself to check how structurally
sound the goat is: |
Are his back knees
(hocks) extremely straight so that when viewed from
the side he looks as if his back legs are fence posts?
This is called “posty legged”. |
Are his ankles (pasterns)
weak and long so that his dewclaws almost rests on
the ground? |
Are his front knees
and pasterns crooked (toe in or out) when viewed from
the front? |
Are his hocks and
pasterns crooked (toe in or out) when viewed from
the rear? |
| When you open his
mouth, are the teeth on his lower jaw way in front
of (overshot, monkey jawed) or behind (undershot or
parrotmouthed) the dental pad of his upper jaw? |
Do the toes of his
hooves spread far apart from each other when he walks?
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Hopefully, you answered
no to all these questions. |
If you are buying
a meat goat doe or doe kid for breeding purposes,
you will also want her to have a healthy udder. It
should not be double teated nor should it hang so
low that it can be injured easily or hard for newborn
kids to nurse from. You generally want her to show
less dairy character when not milking than a dairy
doe would. Her withers will often be rounder and her
escutchen lower than on a dairy doe. If she has kidded
before, make sure she was a good mother and that her
kids grew well while nursing from her, indicating
that she had plenty of milk for them. |
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