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Texas Agricultural Extension Service
Chester P. Fehlis, Deputy Director
The Texas A&M University System
College Station, Texas
AS 3-4.060
10/98
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Original cover art by Ross Stultz.
4-H Meat Goat Guide
Frank Craddock and Ross Stultz*
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Competition in the show arena
is increasing every year as 4-H members are discovering
that goats are an excellent choice as a club project.
Because goats are small, easy to work with and demand
a small amount of space, they provide a meaningful
livestock experience in a relatively short amount
of time. |
If you have decided to have a
club goat project, your first decision will be to
determine which shows to attend. It is your responsibility,
as an exhibitor, to read the general rules and regulations
as well as special rules governing the shows you will
attend. This will tell you the number of goats you
may enter, weight limits, ownership dates and entry
deadlines. Show schedules, rules and regulations may
be obtained from your county Extension agent or directly
from the shows. |
Show dates are extremely important
because they determine the age and size or weight
of the goats to be entered, and at what time of year
they should be purchased. Most shows require that
goats have their milk teeth. Goats usually hold their
milk teeth until they are 10 to 12 months of age.
After this time, it is probable that a goat will lose
its baby teeth and become ineligible for show. |
Goat shows also have weight limit
requirements that must be met.
Under normal conditions, goats will gain approximately
2 to 3 pounds per week. Not all goats can be fed to
the same final weight because there are differences
in frame size. Large frame goats may be correctly
finished at 120 pounds, while small frame goats may
be correctly finished at 80 pounds. You must learn
to look at indicators of frame size and growth (length
of head, neck, cannon bone and body) and determine
at what weight a goat will be correctly finished.
If you know the approximate weight of a goat at the
time of purchase and the length of time until a show,
you can calculate feed requirements (light, moderate
or heavy) needed to enable that goat to enter the
show at its correct weight. |
Remember that size does not make
a good goat. There are good small goats and good big
goats. Your management program is the key. |
Facilities and Equipment |
| One of the major advantages
of a club goat project is that expensive facilities
are not needed. A barn or shed where goats can retreat
from cold, wet conditions and a pen with outside exposure
are essential. Adequate fencing, a feeder and a water
container are required, yet other equipment may be
considered optional. |
Barns/sheds |
| Goats need a living arrangement
that combines access to a shed or barn and an area
where they can get outside in the sunshine. The shed
area should have at least 15 square feet of space
for each goat. The outside pen needs to be as large
as possible to permit the goats to exercise. The shed
should be well drained and should open to the east
or south. Barn temperature is critical. Structures
should be well ventilated so goats will remain cool
and continue to grow during the summer months. However,
when club goats are slick shorn for shows, barns should
be altered during the winter to keep goats as warm
as possible. This can be done by closing the front
with a tarp or plastic sheet and by using heat lamps.
The illustration shows the recommended dimensions
and layout for a goat feeding facility. |
 |
Fences |
| Fence height should be at least
42 inches to keep goats from attempting to jump. Fences
should be predator proof. If using net wire fences,
12-inch mesh should be used rather than 6-inch mesh
to keep goats from hanging their heads in the wire.
The most desirable pens are constructed from galvanized
livestock panels that are 5 feet tall with 4-inch
squares. |
Feeders |
Self-feeders are often used in
the feeding of goats. Self-feeders should be blocked
at least 6 inches off the ground. If goats are hand
fed, use movable troughs that hang on the fence at
the appropriate height. Troughs should be hung at
the same height as the top of the shoulder of the
goat being fed. These movable troughs need to be taken
down and cleaned regularly. Likewise, hay and mineral
feeders need to be raised off the ground. This will
help reduce the spread of disease. It also is important
to make sure that goats are unable to stand in their
feed troughs because they will urinate or defecate
on the feed. |
Water containers |
| Fresh water is the most important
ingredient in feeding club goats. Water should be
checked daily. Water troughs should be small in size
so they can be drained and cleaned on a regular basis.
Troughs should be located in the shade to keep water
cool. In the hot summer months, some goats tend to
drink too much water and appear “full.”
Water should never be totally removed from the goat.
However, rationing water prior to a show will help
remove the belly from the goat and improve its appearance
in the show ring. Remember, do not dehydrate your
goat. The proper amount of fluids is vital to the
feel and condition of your goat. |
Equipment |
To properly feed and exhibit
a club goat, it is necessary to have the following
additional equipment: |
• stiff brush to clean water troughs;
• shovel to clean pens;
• scales to
weigh goats;
• trimming table that measures
45 inches long by 20 inches wide and 18 inches tall;
• electric clippers with 20- and 23-tooth combs
and cutters
• small animal grooming clippers;
• syringes and needles;
• goat blankets
and/or socks;
• halters, collars and/or
show chains;
• hoof trimmers;
•
back-pack drench gun;
• small portable feed
troughs;
• soft brush for grooming;
• water bucket.
You may want the following optional equipment if you
are exhibiting several goats at major shows:
•
show box to hold equipment;
• hot air blower
or dryer;
• portable livestock scales;
• extension cords;
• muzzles;
• electric fans. |
Selection |
The selection of a goat for
a project is one of the most important decisions you
will make. The type of goat you select will have a
major influence on the project’s results. Remember
that a winning goat is a combination of good selection,
good nutritional management, proper grooming and outstanding
showmanship.
People differ in their ability to select animals.
Some have a natural eye for selecting young animals
of high caliber, while others never develop this
ability. Do not hesitate to ask for help from someone
with these skills. It may be your county Extension
agent, Future Farmers of America instructor, parent
or another leader in the county. Also, many breeders
are willing to assist you in your selection.
When selecting, you must know the animal’s
age. Remember that most shows require that goats
have their milk teeth, therefore you need to know
how old your goat is. It also is important to be
aware of fat thickness. Young goats that are bloomy
and fat always look good, while young, thin goats
do not look as nice. Learn to look past fat and
recognize muscle so that you can pick a genetically
superior goat. When purchasing a goat, it is important
to know some information about the producer. Do
not hesitate to ask questions about the goat’s
bloodline and age.
Consider the following when selecting a goat: structural
correctness, muscle, volume and capacity, style
and balance, and growth potential.
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Structural correctness |
Structural correctness refers
to the skeletal system or bone structure of an animal.
A goat should hold its head erect and the neck should
extend out of the top of the shoulders. A goat should
travel and stand wide and straight on both front and
rear legs, and the legs should be placed squarely
under the body. A goat should have a strong level
top, and a long rump with a slight slope from hooks
to pins. Your goat should be heavy boned and be strong
on its pasterns. Open-shouldered, weak-topped, weak-pasterned,
steep-rumped goats should be avoided. |
Muscle |
Generally, a goat that walks
and stands wide is going to be heavier muscled. The
goat should have a deep, heavily muscled leg and rump.
When viewed from behind, the widest part of the leg
should be the stifle area. The goat should have a
broad, thick back and loin that is naturally firm
and hard handling. A good goat should be wide through
its chest floor, with bold shoulders and a prominent
forearm muscle. The chest and forearm are the best
indicators of muscling in thin goats. |
Volume and capacity |
This refers to the relationship
of body length to body depth and body width. Goats
should be long bodied, with adequate depth and spring
of rib. Avoid selecting goats that are short bodied,
shallow bodied, narrow based and flat ribbed. |
Style and balance |
Style and balance refer to the
way all body parts blend together, how the neck blends
into the shoulder, the shoulder into the rib cage,
the rib cage into the loin, the loin into the rump,
and how “eye-appealing” a goat is. When
viewed from the side, a goat should have a smooth
shoulder, level top, trim middle and straight legs.
A goat that is balanced, pretty and holds up its head
is the first one you notice when you walk in the pen. |
Growth potential |
The ability of an animal to
grow rapidly is very important. Generally, a larger
framed goat that shows a long head, neck, cannon bone
and body, will grow faster, be larger and be more
competitive in the show ring. |
Nutrition |
| Contrary to popular belief,
there is no such thing as a “magic” ration
that will make your goat a champion. To implement
a good feeding program, study the goat and use all
available information to make judgments on when feed
changes should be made. Since most goats do not deposit
external fat as rapidly as other species of livestock,
a selffeeding program can be effective. However, some
goats will become too fat during the feeding period
and should be hand fed twice daily to control the
amount of feed consumed.
All livestock require five basic nutrients: water,
protein, fats and carbohydrates (or energy), minerals
and vitamins. |
Water |
| Clean, fresh water is a daily
necessity because water composes more than 70 percent
of lean tissue and all body fluids must be replenished
regularly. Never deprive your goat of water because
water regulates the amount of feed a goat will consume.
However, reduced water intake at certain periods during
the program can reduce feed intake and reduce the
size of the rumen for improved appearance. |
Protein |
The primary constituent of the
animal body is protein. Dietary protein serves to
maintain or replace protein in body tissues, provides
for carriers of other nutrients and is a major component
of various products such as meat, milk and fiber.
Protein requirements for goats vary according to their
size, age and maturity. Young, fast-growing goats
need higher protein diets to allow them to grow and
develop their muscle potential. Rations that contain
16 to 18 percent protein are useful during many phases
of the feeding program. Remember that goats have a
daily requirement for protein. If more protein is
fed than is required, the excess is used for energy.
Using protein as an energy source is very expensive.
When total feed intake is greatly reduced, protein
supplementation may be necessary in order to provide
the adequate daily requirements for your goat. |
Carbohydrates and fats |
| The most common limiting nutrients
in goat rations are energyproducing carbohydrates
and fats. Inadequate energy intake will result in
slow growth and weight loss. An adequate supply of
energy is necessary for efficient nutrient utilization.
Grains and protein supplements are high in energy.
However, in goat rations, too much energy intake can
be just as detrimental as not enough. |
Minerals |
| The minerals of major concern
in goat rations are salt (sodium and chlorine), calcium
and phosphorus. Salt can be fed free-choice. However,
many rations contain 1/2 to 1 percent salt.Calcium
and phosphorus are necessary for proper growth and
development, and should be fed at a ratio of two parts
of calcium to one part phosphorus. Rations that contain
high levels of phosphorus in relation to calcium may
cause urinary calculi. The addition of ammonium chloride
at the rate of 10 to 15 pounds per ton of feed will
help prevent urinary calculi. Roughages are generally
high in calcium and low in phosphorus. Grains are
generally low in calcium and intermediate in phosphorus.
Most protein supplements are high in phosphorus and
intermediate in calcium. A mineral supplement with
a 25 to 30 percent protein content can be of benefit
in a feeding program when used to top dress the ration.
However, this will not work with a pelleted ration.
Supplements must be used in the proper amounts because
excesses will deplete the muscle mass of the goat. |
Vitamins |
Vitamins are essential for proper
body function and are required by goats in very small
amounts. Only vitamin A is ever likely to be deficient.
If goats are fed alfalfa hay or dehydrated
alfalfa pellets in the ration, then vitamin A deficiency
should not be a problem. It is a good practice to
occasionally inoculate goats with a B complex vitamin.
This promotes their health and helps them eat well. |
Health |
The key to a healthy goat is
the development of a preventive health program. Most
goats purchased for club projects are on a health
maintenance program and have had a variety of vaccinations.
However, as you develop your preventive program, assume
that the goat you have purchased has had no treatments.
Vaccinations and treatments for certain common problems
should be included in your program. |
Enterotoxemia |
| A major cause of death in club
goats is enterotoxemia or overeating disease. Afflicted
animals seldom exhibit symptoms and rapid death is
usually the result. This disease is caused by a clostridial
organism normally present in the intestine of most
goats. Goats that have their feeding schedule abruptly
changed or consume large amounts of grain are subject
to enterotoxemia types C and D. Feeding changes can
cause the clostridial organism to grow rapidly and
produce a powerful toxin that causes death in a few
hours. All club goats should be vaccinated with a
combination (types C and D) vaccine immediately after
purchase.At least one booster vaccination is recommended. |
Internal parasites |
| Internal parasites are a continual
problem. Newly purchased goats should be drenched
immediately for internal parasites and a second drenching
should follow about 3 weeks later. Few drenches are
approved for treating goats for internal parasites.
Your veterinarian will have the best information on
the most effective drenches. Because internal parasites
develop resistance to a drench over time, it may be
effective to rotate the use of products. |
Urinary calculi |
Urinary calculi is a metabolic
disease of male goats characterized by the formation
of calculi or stones in the urinary tract. The first
sign of calculi is a goat’s inability to pass
urine. The goat will be restless, kick at its belly,
stretch and attempt to urinate. The common cause of
calculi formation in wether goats is feed rations
with high phosphorus levels and an imbalance of calcium
and phosphorus. Because grains are high in phosphorus
and low in calcium, high concentrate rations may cause
urinary calculi. A successful preventive is to provide
a 2:1 calcium:phosphorus ratio in the ration and by
adding 10 to 15 pounds of ammonium chloride per ton
of feed. Provide plenty of clean, fresh drinking water
also. |
Coccidiosis |
Coccidiosis causes weight loss
and continued inefficiency in goats. The disease is
characterized by bloody diarrhea, dehydration, weight
loss and weakness. Sick goats should be separated
and given individual treatment as prescribed by a
veterinarian. Most commercial show goat rations are
medicated with a coccidiostat that should help control
coccidiosis. |
Soremouth |
| Soremouth is a contagious, viral
disease that causes the formation of scabs on the
lips and around the mouths of goats. This virus can
affect humans, so be careful when handling goats with
soremouth. Iodine can be rubbed into lesions after
the scabs are removed and this will help dry the area
and reduce the infection. The Texas Agricultural Experiment
Station manufactures an excellent soremouth vaccine.
As with all livevirus vaccines, use extreme caution
when administering the product. |
Ringworm |
| Ringworm has become a serious
problem in the lamb industry. Because most club goats
are shown in the same barns and show rings as lambs,
it is probable that ringworm will become a problem
in goats as well. Ringworm is contagious and can be
transmitted from goat to goat, from goat to human,
or from infected equipment to goat. A good prevention
program is necessary. The following products have
been used with varying results:
• Fulvicin® - powder given as a bolus or
used a top dress feed.
• Novasan® - 3 ounces per gallon of water
sprayed on goats, equipment and premises.
• Bleach - 10 percent solution sprayed on goats,
equipment and premises. |
Pinkeye |
This contagious disease is characterized by excessive
watering of the eye and clouding over of the pupil.
Goats are susceptible to pinkeye especially after
they have been transported to a new location. Dry,
dusty pens and constant exposure to sunlight can be
contributing factors.
There are several medications on the market for pinkeye.
If you do not notice improvement within a few days
after treatment, contact your veterinarian. |
Illegal drugs |
State and federal laws and regulations
concerning the use of drugs for livestock and poultry
are established to protect human and animal health.
These laws and regulations state that instructions
and restrictions on product labels must be strictly
followed. The labels state the species or class of
livestock or poultry for which the drug is to be used,
the recommended route of administration, the approved
dosage rate and specific conditions to be treated.
When administering drugs, always follow label instructions.
The use of a drug in a manner other than stated
on its label is regulated by the Food and Drug Administration
and may be done only under the control of a licensed
veterinarian. The veterinarian assumes the responsibility
for making medical judgements and you, the client,
agree to strictly follow the instructions.
Most Texas livestock shows have strict policies
against the illegal use of drugs and will disqualify
animals if such drugs have been used.
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Hoof trimming |
| A goat’s hooves will grow
long if they are not naturally worn down by traveling
over rough terrain. Long hooves should be trimmed
about every 6 weeks. Always trim hooves 1 to 2 weeks
before a show in case you accidentally cut into the
quick and temporarily cripple the goat. This will
allow the goat time to heal before the show. If foot
rot develops, treat it by trimming the hoof closely
and placing the foot in a zinc sulfate foot bath. |
Dehorning or tipping |
Some shows require that goats
be dehorned. If you plan to dehorn, it is preferred
to “disbud” goats at 10 to 14 days of
age. The older the goat is and the larger the horn,
the more stressful it will be on the goat. Other shows
request only that goat horns be tipped for show. Tipping
can be done easily without causing much stress to
the goat. Horns should be tipped 4 to 6 weeks prior
to the show to allow the horns to heal properly. Dehorning
or tipping rules are made for the safety of the exhibitors. |
Management and Feeding
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You have a choice of feeding a
commercially prepared ration, mixing your own, or
feeding a county ration that has been mixed and is
sold by the local feed store. There are many complete
commercial rations available.
Goats are picky eaters, therefore,
a pelleted ration is recommended over a textured or
loose ration. Select a balanced ration, learn how
to feed it and learn how your goat responds to it.
At the time of purchase, many young
goats will not know how to eat pelleted feed from
a trough. These goats should be started on good, leafy
alfalfa hay that is top dressed with a preconditioning
pellet. After 3 or 4 days, the selected ration may
be introduced slowly. Hay can be fed during the first
part of the feeding program, but should be eliminated
at the later stages to prevent goats from developing
large stomachs.
Most goats can be self fed for the
entire feeding period. However, some goats will become
fat and need to be hand fed. Fat deposition must be
monitored throughout the feeding program. The feeding
schedule can be adjusted to modify gain and body composition,
but the goats must be continually monitored so changes
can be made. Rations not producing enough finish can
be bolstered by the addition of a high energy feed,
such as corn, during the late stages of the feeding
program. Remember, never make abrupt changes in your
feeding program. Make gradual changes so your goat
will stay on feed and continue to develop.
The feeding program will dictate
how your goat develops and matures.
A good program cannot make up for
a lack of superior genetics, but it will allow your
goat to reach its genetic potential. Feeding is a
daily responsibility and the program should be changed
as needed to maximize your results. To best monitor
your results, weigh your goat on a regular basis.
Know whether your goat is gaining
or losing weight and know how much weight. Exercise
can be very beneficial to your goat and to your success
in the show ring. Goats are very active animals and,
if given enough room, they will exercise themselves.
Have objects like big rocks or wooden spools in your
pen for climbing and jumping. This will provide your
goat with an excellent opportunity to exercise itself.
A goat that exercises will handle harder and firmer,
and will give you an advantage in the show ring. |
Fitting |
Most of the major shows in Texas
enforce the shearing rule for goats.
Because some differences in hair
length are allowed at the time of show, it is important
to read the show rules prior to clipping your goat
for a particular show.
It is not always necessary to wash your goat, but
it can be beneficial. Use a mild soap sparingly, rinse
the animal thoroughly and dry the goat completely.
Then, brush your goat with a stiff brush on a regular
basis. Brushing removes all of the dead hair and dirt.
Shear your goat according to show rules at least 1
week to 10 days before the show. This will allow clipper
tracks to even out and the pink skin to become less
apparent. A pair of electric clippers equipped with
either a 20- or 23-tooth comb and 4-point cutter should
be used to ensure a smoother, more attractive goat.
While shearing, the clippers should run parallel to
the length of the body rather than vertically. Hair
below the knees and hocks should not be shorn, and
the hair on the end of the tail should be bobbed.
Small animal clippers may be needed to clip closely
around the eyes, ears, pasterns or delicate areas
on the goat.
If shearing in cold weather, cover
your goat with a lamb sock and/or blanket immediately
after shearing. A clean, well-bedded pen should be
provided to keep the goat clean and dry. |
Showing |
Some people are natural showmen,
but all exhibitors can learn techniques to improve
their showmanship skills. |
Preshow preparation |
The amount of time required to
train a goat for show depends on the goat, the physical
size and experience of the exhibitor, and the intensity
of training. Some goats are easy to gentle and train
for show, while others goats are difficult and nearly
impossible to train. Most goats can be trained if
enough time and effort are spent. Unlike lambs, goats
are shown with a halter, collar or chain.
Halter breaking is an excellent way
to start the gentling process, especially if you have
several goats. Collars, chains or inexpensive rope
halters can be made or purchased from feed and livestock
supply stores. Goats should be caught, haltered, chained
or collared and tied to a fence. If using the collar
or chain, snap them to the fence. Do not tie the goats
where they can hurt themselves and do not leave tied
goats unattended.
After your goat begins to gentle,
you can start teaching it to lead. Use the collar,
chain or halter to keep the goat’s head up while
you teach it to lead. Have someone assist you by pushing
the goat from behind whenever it stops. Teach the
goat to lead with its front shoulder even with your
leg. The goat’s head should be in front of your
body.
The next step in the training process
is to lead the goat and properly set it up. Set up
the front legs first, then place the hind legs, keeping
the body and neck straight and the head in a high,
proud position by using the halter, chain or collar.
You should remain standing at all times. Do not squat
or kneel.
After the training is complete, you
may wish to practice showing. Set up your goat and
show it while someone else handles it. You must make
sure the goat looks good at all times. If the goat
responds properly, return it to the pen and do not
overwork it. Remember, in a major show, you may have
only 5 seconds to actually show your goat. If the
goat does not show properly when the judge handles
it, you may get overlooked. |
Show ring |
Your planning, selection, feeding,
fitting, training and grooming have brought you and
your goat this far — to the show ring. Now,
your skill in exhibiting your goat — showmanship
— cannot be emphasized too strongly! It is often
the difference between winning and losing.
You should be mentally and physically
ready to enter the show ring for competition. By completing
the preshow activities, you should have confidence
that you can do an effective job showing your goat.
You should be neat in appearance, but not overdressed.
Do not wear a hat or cap in the show ring.
Before the show begins, become familiar with the show
ring. When the judging begins, watch the judge if
possible and see how he works the goats. You will
feel more comfortable and confident if you know what
the judge will want you to do.
When the appropriate class is called,
take your goat to the show ring.
If the ring stewards do not line
up the goats, find a place where your goat will look
its best. Avoid corners of the ring and leave plenty
of space between your goat and others. Set your goat
up, making sure the legs are set properly, and keep
the body, neck and head in a straight line with the
goat’s head up and alert. Always show with both
hands. Do not put your free hand behind your back;
use it to keep the goat’s head and body straight.
A good showman must be alert and
always know where the judge is at all times. Remember
to keep your eye on the judge! Remain calm and 13
concentrate on showing. Set up your goat and be ready
before the judge gets to you. Be careful not to cover
your goat with your body and block the judge’s
view. Always keep your goat between you and the judge.
In large classes, it may take 20 minutes before the
judge handles your goat.
Be patient and let your goat relax.
After handling your goat, the judge usually will step
back and look at it. Be sure to keep the goat’s
head up and body, neck and head in a straight line.
Keep one eye on the judge and one eye on your goat.
It is your responsibility to watch the judge and not
miss a decision.
If your goat is not pulled the first
time, keep trying. Continue to keep it set up, remain
alert and watch the judge. If your goat is pulled,
circle it out of the line and follow the directions
of the ring steward while continuing to keep an eye
on the judge. Move your goat with style and at a steady,
moderate pace.
Remember to keep showing at all times,
because a class is not over until the ribbons are
distributed. Be courteous to fellow exhibitors. A
good showman will emphasize strong points and minimize
weak points of a goat. Remain standing at all times
and always display a pleasant facial expression. Be
a good sport, a graceful loser and a humble winner.
|
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| * Professor and Extension
Sheep and Goat Specialist, and former Extension Assistant-Animal
Science/Sheep and Goat Production; The Texas A&M
University System.
Contributors: Mike Harbour, Schleicher County Extension
Agent; and Joe Raff, Wichita County Extension Agent. |
Educational programs of the
Texas Agricultural Extension Service are open to all
people without regard to race, color, sex, disability,
religion, age or national origin. |
Issued in furtherance
of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home
Economics, Acts of Congress of May 8, 1914, as amended,
and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United
States Department of Agriculture. Chester P. Fehlis,
Deputy Director, Texas Agricultural Extension Service,
The Texas A&M University System.
15M, New 4-H 3-5 |
| Produced by Agricultural Communications, The
Texas A&M University System |
The information herein is
for educational purposes only.
Reference to commercial products or trade names is
made with the understanding that no discrimination
is intended and no endorsement by the Texas Agricultural
Extension Service is implied. |
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