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NEW YORK STATE 4-H MEAT GOAT PROJECT FACT SHEET #3
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by Dr.Tatiana Stanton
April 1999
Cornell University, Ithaca , NY 14853
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BUYING A MEAT GOAT |
So you’ve decided to
buy a meat goat wether. OK -- let’s start looking. First,
if at all possible, find someone who knows a lot about goats
to go “shopping” with you. This way they can help
you avoid goats with serious problems and find a goat that
meets your needs. They will also have a better idea of what
a fair or realistic price is for specific goats. Do not buy
your 4-H project goat at an auction. It is much better to
buy it direct from the person who raised it. This way you
can find out useful information about what shots it has had,
feed it is used to, and how meaty its relatives look.. If
you do not have a 4-H leader with goat experience to guide
you, try to buy your goat from someone local who is willing
to give you advice if you run into problems with your goat.
A local goat club is a good place to find out about goat raisers
who are helpful and have good quality goats for sale. Your
local Cornell Cooperative Extension office or the Empire State
Meat Goat Producers’ Association can also give you information
about local meat goat breeders. |
Market wethers can come from
almost any breed. But you will probably get a meatier kid
if it is part South African Boer Goat. It makes sense to start
out with a healthy, sound (sound means free of structural
defects) goat kid that appears to have a good meat carcass. |
You should usually buy a
market wether shortly after weaning unless you raised him
yourself from one of your own does. You can also start with
a 2 week old kid that you will need to bottle feed at least
twice daily but this will take both a lot of work and a lot
of milk. Bottlefed kids are generally less meaty than kids
that are raised on their dams and they are also easy to get
very attached to. Don’t make this choice unless you
and your family have discussed and planned it out carefully
and have experience caring for very young animals. Always
keep in mind that this is a market kid and you are raising
it to slaughter for goat meat. Try to avoid buying an animal
right when it is undergoing a lot of stress. For example,
if possible get a weaned kid a week after weaning rather than
right at weaning. If you must buy the kid at exactly weaning
be sure to find out what hay and/or creep feed it is already
eating and buy a small amount of this feed from the seller
to feed it at home the first few days while you gradually
switch it to your own feed Ask that it be given a Clostridium
C and D shot within 2 to 4 weeks before weaning to try and
protect it against enterotoximia (overeating disease). If
the kid has not been castrated yet, remember that you will
have to get it castrated yourself in order to show it in most
4-H shows. Make sure the kid has been disbudded or was born
naturally polled (hornless) if your local 4-H shows do not
allow horned goats. Otherwise plan on “tipping”
the points of the horn by removing the tips with a hack saw
or hoof nippers at least a month before showing him. Goats
are very socialable so it is a good idea to buy two goats
rather than just one. |
| Ideally, the wether you
are buying should look long in the loin (at least 6 inches
long if 10 weeks old) when viewed from the side and very wide
between his legs when viewed from the front and rear. You
want his escutchen to be low and wide. Unless he is only a
few weeks old you would like to see some muscle development
on his thighs and forearms. He should have a shiny, glossy
coat and look a little plump if he is still nursing from his
dam. His withers should be rounded rather than sharp and he
should be relatively level along his topline. Count on him
growing about 2 to 3 lbs per week or about 10 to 15 lbs per
month from weaning to slaughter age. For example, if you buy
a kid who is 40 lbs at 12 weeks of age in late May and your
4-H show is in late August, your kid will likely weigh at
least 70 lbs at showtime. |
| Here are some questions to ask yourself
as you try to choose a wether to buy: |
Do his eyes look dull
or cloudy? |
Yes |
No |
Does he have diarrhea? |
Yes |
No |
Is he standing hunched up with his
tail drooping down? |
Yes |
No |
Are his eyes or nose very runny? |
Yes |
No |
Is he coughing or breathing hard
without having just done hard exercise? |
Yes |
No |
Is his coat rough and flaky or does
he have any bald spots? |
Yes |
No |
Are his gums and insides of his
eyelids very pale? |
Yes |
No |
Does he have any unusual lumps or
swellings on his body or legs? |
Yes |
No |
Is he lame or stiff moving? |
Yes |
No |
Does he have a fever? |
Yes |
No |
Is his appetite poor? |
Yes |
No |
Does he seem depressed or weak and
uninterested in his surroundings? |
Yes |
No |
Is he having troube urinating? |
Yes |
No |
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A yes answer to any of these
questions often indicates a sick goat. So check carefully
with the owner if you feel any of these health problems exist.
Here are some more questions to ask yourself to check how
structurally sound the goat is: |
Are his back knees (hocks)
extremely straight so that when viewed from the side he looks
as if his back legs are fence posts? This is called “posty
legged”. |
Are his ankles (pasterns)
weak and long so that his dewclaws almost rests on the ground? |
Are his front knees and pasterns
crooked (toe in or out) when viewed from the front? |
Are his hocks and pasterns
crooked (toe in or out) when viewed from the rear? |
When you open his mouth,
are the teeth on his lower jaw way in front of (overshot,
monkey jawed) or behind (undershot or parrotmouthed) the dental
pad of his upper jaw? |
Do the toes of his hooves
spread far apart from each other when he walks? |
Hopefully, you answered no
to all these questions. |
If you are buying a meat
goat doe or doe kid for breeding purposes, you will also want
her to have a healthy udder. It should not be double teated
nor should it hang so low that it can be injured easily or
hard for newborn kids to nurse from. You generally want her
to show less dairy character when not milking than a dairy
doe would. Her withers will often be rounder and her escutchen
lower than on a dairy doe. If she has kidded before, make
sure she was a good mother and that her kids grew well while
nursing from her, indicating that she had plenty of milk for
them. |